Trojan Boat Forum

G'day all.

I recently joined the ranks of Trojan owners with the purchase of a 1978 F25.

I have been boating since I was a kid, but always with outboards or i/os - from fishing boats and pontoons, to houseboats - both singles and twins.

This single inboard has me stumped when it comes to backing into a slip. Anyone know of a precise online primer on this topic?

Thanks,

dlattan

Welcome aboard But I don't understand your question.
(I'm german)
--
Greetings - Heiner

I do it like this but a lot slower...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdI3-LHi ... ure=fvwrel

With a right hand prop the boat pulls to port in reverse. Keep the helm hard over to port (the direction you would turn if you were in forward) while backing into your slip and bump the boat into forward to push the stern to starboard to counter act this pull to port. Works out well unless there's any wind. Timing is everything when you have to deal with a tight alley between the next dock over.

Pay your dues and you'll get it.

I still get antsy when I dock if there's any wind.

Remember, when you go slow, you hit things slow.

No single answer.. did you do a google search, lots of info to read which will help guide your thinking and practice.
The Trojan has a relatively small rudder so you will need to use a little more reverse power than you feel comfortable with.... that discomfort will go away when you see that it works

https://www.google.com/search?source=ig ... zGfh499TmI

I have 15 years experience boating with I/Os and outboards, but this is my first year with a single inboard. My F26 with no wind will back straight at idle speed with the wheel hard to starboard. It will turn to port with the wheel anywhere else. It will not turn to starboard in reverse no matter what. If backing into a slip, it is best to position the boat so you will be making a turn to port as you are backing in to the slip. The amount of turn can be controlled by the wheel. If you try to back straight and the stern gets too far to port, you will need to use forward power to straighten the boat out. A nice graceful arc into the slip is a beautiful thing to see.

One thing that makes driving my F26 difficult is how much the wind affects it at idle speed. In my experience, the wind is much more important than the tide. Make sure to account for the wind when planning your turns. In tight quarters with the wind pushing the bow and no ability to turn to starboard in reverse, driving the boat can be a challenge. With strong wind and strong current, the best I could do once was to drift sideways between two docks until I drifted past the end and could back straight out into open water. The only thing I could do was move forward and back to stay in the middle of the lane between the docks. It was not a pleasant experience, but I got through it without any injuries or damage. In hindsight, I needed to be much more vigilant in keeping the bow into the wind and not let the bow swing past center. Once the bow swung past center, there was no recovering.

When docking side to, always try to dock using the port side (hence the name). Docking port side to, the stern of the boat can be brought into the dock using small amounts of reverse thrust. It's actually quite easy to dock the boat this way. On the other hand, since it is not possible to move the stern to starboard in reverse, docking starboard side to is difficult. With enough current on the bow it can be done, but port side to is always preferred.

The best advice is get into open water and play with your boat. Good luck from another single inboard newbie.

Welcome aboard.

Thanks, all.

dlattan

Welcome to the forums

Read chapmans boat handling section first. Then get in open water and see what it does, preferrably with someone who is proficient. Single screws have a thing called side thrust which is your friend when you understand it. Caused by the prop at an angle and having a downward blade and upward blace. Sort of like a helicopeter that has advancing and retreating blade.

FYI once understood and practiced you can pretty much do anything you need to, slow and in increments is the tickets, not gross movements or or large use of throttle.

luck

Practice, practice, practice!

welcome aboard and good thread! I look forward to your progress. This is a scary thought to me. In restoration and wont be in the water for the first time untill next year. There is alot of good info online though, I only have 5 years with I/O. Good luck!!

OK - so it's been a year and I have one season under my belt with a single inboard and have enjoyed both the boating and the rehab work on the F25. All the advice was helpful, but the most memorable was vabeach1234's "Remember, when you go slow, you hit things slow." Very good advice in a crowded marina.

As you all indicated, wind and current are problematic. Being an engineer, I prefer function to form, so over the Winter I crafted a DIY bow thruster from two MinnKota 55lb thrust trolling motor lower ends. It is not pretty, but it works great! If you want pix, private message me your email address and I'll send them to you.

dlattan

When trying to back, the prop will only pull the boat to one side when it is actually in gear... so minimizing the amount of time in gear will help. Get used to bumping it in and out of gear to keep better control. As others have said, find a port side dock and back to port whenever possible (even if that means telling a marina you are visiting that you need a slip with a port side tie up).

Also, if you have enough backwards speed (NOTE : I said 'enough', not 'let er rip'!!!!!), and with the engine out of gear (so you don't have to fight the prop walk), you can get enough water flow over the rudder to back in the opposite direction or at least go straight. I have used the technique backing out of slips; you may be able to use it to back into one.
- rudder hard to starboard
- engage reverse
- goose the throttle to 1000-1200 RPM to give 'er a good yank backwards (if you have people manning lines on the dock, have them also start by pulling the boat backwards to give it a bit of reverse momentum before you engage the prop)
- WITHIN 2-3 SECONDS get back to idle and into neutral

With any luck, the shot will give you enough reverse momentum that you get the water flow over the rudder to give some control. If you need more, repeat -- reverse, goose the throttle for 1-3 seconds, back to idle and neutral. Give it a couple of seconds to see how the boat reacts.

Another big tip - try all of this IN OPEN WATER FIRST !!! Play with gears, prop, throttle and see how your boat reacts to the different inputs.

My boat handling learning came over 25 year period on my father's 1969 28' Sea Skiff, with a single.

After spending the Winter practicing using the BoatMaster computer simulator, I decided the only way to effectively work my boat around docks/slips is by using lines. A bow aft spring line is a single screw inboard's best friend. When docking, once the bow aft spring line is attached to the dock I only need to turn the wheel away from the dock and go forward on the line. The stern will swing right into the dock. When leaving the dock with a current on the stern I can swing my stern out using a bow aft spring line by turning the wheel toward the dock and going forward on the line. With my sterndrive I never had to use lines but with this inboard it's a necessity.

The Dog House wrote:After spending the Winter practicing using the BoatMaster computer simulator,

Oh Boy. Dog House - there is a boat simulator program?? Some marine tricks should remain a secret.

BoatMaster simulator. . . . . now I will never get anything done!!!! I will be doing to many simulations!!