Oil Change

[Commissionpoint]

Yeh. Zinc= good for flat tappets. Lotsa pressure there.


Shell Rotella T (T1 for straight weight) is good for older style engines. It has a decent zinc content. If you want more zinc content than the Rotella there is always Kendell GT-1, it comes with more zinc and full synthetic pricing.

[prowlersfish]

thats the proplem with newest oils for cars now lower zinc

[captainmaniac]

I will always be an 'old school' dude. No multi-vicosity stuff in this boat. I used to use SAE30 as per manual, now that things are a bit more loosened up (1600+ hours and 33 years old) I am running SAE40. My opinion : mutligrade and fancy additives may be okay for newer engines, manufactured to newer specs, with more robust materials and parts that may still follow their manufacturing tolerances.... but a 30+ year old engine is loosened up and more of a brute... It was designed and built with certain oil properties in mind - use what it was designed for, or what existed when it was designed.

For oil extractor, I use the PELA pump (like the MityVac that g36 posted the info on waaaaaay back on page 1). A dozen or so pumps to create vacuum and then just sit back and wait for it to pull out what it can. I get 4-5quarts out with it every change (+ what is in the filter)... not everything, but enough to make a huge difference.

I have tried using hand pumps (burned the crap out of my hands when the hot oil ran though it), and drill pumps (spend half the day waiting for it to do something useful). Prefer the PELA.

The only way to get all the oil out is to pull the plug (not very easy to do on a marine engine based on how low it sits), but there are also systems you can get where you remove the oil pan drain plug and add plumbing (a fitting goes where plug would, then a hose or tube goes from there up to some bulkhead in the engine compartment.... then you can hook up a vacuum pump to that and you are essentially sucking the oil out from the lowest point). You still have the pain of getting to and pulling the plug, but you only have to do that once... not every oil change.

Or for some (won't mention who here), I hear that after pulling off the oil filter and running the engine for 5 minutes, then doing a rinse with CLR to make sure there are no deposits, and then refilling with olive oil, baby oil, or KY Jelly ..... will save you 2 minutes! Suggest you discuss the ramifications with your mechanic or insurance company first though....

[jefflaw35]

Think I will just tie my oil drain line into my thro-hull potty system and have the kids flush the toilet till I hear funny noises then just add oil....I should be good right?

[larryeddington]

Lucas makes an additive that puts the zinc back in, and is available. It is touted as a breakin oil.

[summersld]

What I do is every 3 or 4 oil changes I drain the oil and fill the engine up with soapy fresh water and run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes or until it starts making funny noises, drain and refill up new oil. What you end up with is a very clean engine.

Some times a man with only 3 fingers walks by the boat. OK.

And then every 6 to 8 changes you replace the engine just because you can right...

[summersld]

Hey CaptainManiac, that's exectly what I did.
I pulled 4 quarts the first time and I think it was already about a quart low.
The only thing I had to really put some thought into was the thread direction on the old filter.
Turns out that it's the old "righty tighty lefty loosy". Go figure
That pump really is amazing.

Thanks

[captainmaniac]

I have a friend I helped out one year, who used to have an F25. Used my extractor, but only pulled between 1 and 2 quarts (litres) out of the engine.

Thought my pump wasn't working right or the hose shoved down the dipstick tube wasn't getting to the bottom of the pan at first... spent an hour or more crunched in his bilge trying to figure out how to get more oil out. No dice.

When he refilled the engine, it took 6 quarts/litres... SO.... I really did extract pretty much what he had, and he was really only running on 2 quarts or so! Them old Chryslers are almost bullet proof!

Old school rules!

[summer storm]

What I do is every 3 or 4 oil changes I drain the oil and fill the engine up with soapy fresh water and run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes or until it starts making funny noises, drain and refill up new oil. What you end up with is a very clean engine.

Some times a man with only 3 fingers walks by the boat. OK.

And then every 6 to 8 changes you replace the engine just because you can right...

It was a inside joke. You will find we have a sense of humor around here.

Welcome to the forum, you will find the exchange of information for Trojans on this site second to none.

[TADTOOMUCH]

What I do for oil changes is have the boat yard put my boat in the travel lift and pull up on one side only in the sling and tip the boat sideways so that all the oil runs out of the oil filter connection. Usually a 45 to 50 degree tip will do it. They they just tip it the other way for the other engine. It's a little tricky standing in the bilge sideways when they do it. This also lets the carbs drain all the fuel at the end of the season so they don't gunk up. Then I rub down the whole engine with Crisco and wrap a large plastic bag around them to keep the rust away.

In the spring when we fire her up, it smells just like pancakes cooking in the bilge. Yummmm.

Use Dawn dish soap for cleanup. You can even clean your greasy pots and pans after cooking a turkey in the F-32 oven.

[EM63]

We do it a lot easier. We simply drill a hole down through the hull and the engine.
So the old oil drain away easily. We then seal the holes by a minimal invasive surgeon.
--
Greetings - Heiner

[Commissionpoint]

What I do for oil changes is have the boat yard put my boat in the travel lift and pull up on one side only in the sling and tip the boat sideways so that all the oil runs out of the oil filter connection. Usually a 45 to 50 degree tip will do it. They they just tip it the other way for the other engine. It's a little tricky standing in the bilge sideways when they do it. This also lets the carbs drain all the fuel at the end of the season so they don't gunk up. Then I rub down the whole engine with Crisco and wrap a large plastic bag around them to keep the rust away.

In the spring when we fire her up, it smells just like pancakes cooking in the bilge. Yummmm.

Use Dawn dish soap for cleanup. You can even clean your greasy pots and pans after cooking a turkey in the F-32 oven.

I was with you 100% until the turkey in the F-32 oven. How do you get a turkey in that oven??!! I have done a boneless leg of lamb, a couple shank hams, several ducks, and many chickens, but have yet to find the turkey that will fit in there. Are you using the Crisco off the engine blocks to help squeeze it in there?

[prowlersfish]

Note to self . Self do not let anyone here change your oil

Or cook you a turkey

[Allen Sr]

Note to self . Self do not let anyone here change your oil

Or cook you a turkey

+ 1 (a million times)

[Commissionpoint]

Note to self . Self do not let anyone here change your oil

You are in the clear Paul, because of your 4 stroke diesels none of this applies to you.

What you would want is some french fry oil for your fuel tanks.